Feminist And Feminine? Dior Gets It

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Feminist And Feminine? Dior Gets It

October 3rd, 2016

Feminism is all the rage on the catwalks this season. Dior’s latest show had a girl-power soundtrack and T-shirts emblazoned with the instruction that, “We should all be feminists,” taken from the title of an essay written by the Nigerian-born Chimamanda Adichie.

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Maria Grazia Chiuri is the first female designer at Dior in its 70-year history and this was her first collection. If anyone is entitled to question how feminism and femininity should look and sound at this most feminine of houses, it’s her. If you believe that elegant, comfortable clothes can foster confidence and a sense of well-being, there was a lot here that was empowering.

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The more you looked, the more there was to like: beautiful, understated saddle bags, dainty kitten-heels, sling-backs with dressmaker-tape straps, chic, streamlined trainers (with enough J’adore Dior branding on some of them to please the status-junkies) and exquisite embroideries, not just of bees (Christian Dior was an early enthusiast for biodiversity) but of illustrations inspired by Chagall, Cocteau and Dali – all friends of Christian Dior.

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The eveningwear bore similarities with Valentino, but she made it sexier (corset alert) and more structured. Chiuri has clearly been looking both at the archives and at the styles that millions wear today. She earned her applause.

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